Archive for August, 2009

Mackinac Island

Tuesday, 11th August 2009; 10:13 pm - Location: ,

My site at Straits State Park is only a treeline and some marsh/shore from the Straits themselves. I have a view of the Bridge from it. Probably the only state park where proximity to an Interstate is a major attraction. 🙂

After a quick but thorough shower (my first since Saturday night), I grabbed a 4:30 ferry (Star line, first one I came to from the state park) for Mackinac Island. This only gave me few hours on the Island, for the same price as for a full day, but one takes what one has time for. On the ferry I realized that I’d left my keys in my scooter, but the folks at Star (contacted by phone from the dock) pulled them and held them for me.

The promised “partly cloudy” finally came through, and in fact it was mostly sunny from mid-afternoon onward.

Mackinac Island was mostly alright. Very touristy, but that’s the whole point of the place. I walked out to Arch Rock, which I overheard a guide say would probably be gone in another 40 years. Kinda like me.

I stopped at Fred’s Burger Joint for a quick meal, but the nitwit working the counter forgot my order. He took it, charged me for it, gave me a number to be called when it was ready, and… nothing. They weren’t even busy. I waited patiently at first. It was a chicken sandwich; maybe the meat started raw and they needed to cook it thoroughly? When about twice the reasonable amount of time had passed I asked if I could at least have my drink while I waited. “Sure… now what did you order?” He got it for me, mumbling halfheartedly that he was sorry. Not good enough. I didn’t clear my table. I was tempted to make an extra mess, but instead I just wrote FUCK U in ketchup on the wrapper for my sandwich, and left it for him. (They were getting ready to close by the time I left.) Because of this delay, the visitor center was closed when I got there, so I couldn’t get a map, so I couldn’t find and get to the Grand Hotel and back before the 8pm ferry left. Not entirely the nitwit’s fault, but he made it happen. Fortunately I had just enough time left to get a beer, so the last hour wasn’t a total loss.

I got back to St Ignace with plenty of time to get sunset and nighttime photos of the Bridge. I’m not really equipped for this kind of photography (the autofocus on my new Olympus sucks in these conditions) so don’t hold your breath, but I’ll add some when I get home. (The only photos appearing here “live” are from my iPhone, which couldn’t take a nighttime Bridge photo to save my life.)

UP

Tuesday, 11th August 2009; 3:04 pm - Location:

I made it!

Getting on the Bridge was easy: just drive down Jamet, cross the street, and go up the ramp (ignoring the “no bicycles or mopeds” sign). The sun even came out, which I took as a good sign.

Then came a bad sign. Literally. There on the side of the road, not visible until on the highway, was a sign that read “RIGHT LANE CLOSED”. For those unfamiliar with the Bridge, the right lane is the one that’s paved all the way across. It’s closer to the edge, of course, but it’s the slow lane, and did I mention that it’s paved all the way across? Closing that means that all traffic is forced to drive on the inside lane. Which is a metal grate. That you can see through.

I’ve ridden the scooter (briefly) on metal grates before, and when I saw this sign it was too late to (safely) stop and turn back, so I kept repeating “I can do this” and… I did it. I knew the drill: eyes forward and keep taking deep breaths. The wheels kept jiggling with the grooves in the grate, but I held tight. I don’t know how fast I was going; I didn’t dare look. I just kept the wheels spinning, and the vehicle upright.

The bridge has hill in the middle for the freighters to go under, which slowed me down even more. Near the top of it, the right lane opened up (there had been no actual work being done on it at any point during my ride) and I immediately took it. The car that had been following at a courteous distance slowly overtook me, as did several more. Of course now that I was on real pavement (and going downhill), I picked up speed.

I laughed maniacally for the last couple hundred meters.

At the toll booth the attendant asked casually as I paid, how many cc’s in my engine. “125,” I casually exaggerated. “Is it licenced?” he probed. “Yes,” I lied, and scooted away.

Tunnel of trees

Tuesday, 11th August 2009; 2:06 pm - Location: , ,

I only stopped briefly in Petoskey. The way US-31 rushes thru downtown with no obvious escape route, you’d almost think they didn’t want you to stop there. I paused at the state park east of town, when I realized that I’d almost blown all the way through Petoskey.

I stopped longer at Harbor Springs across Little Traverse Bay, which is a nice tourist-friendly harbortown.

I then rode thru the “Tunnel of Trees”: M-119. It’s a winding road along the bluffs over Lake Michigan. It’s only a lane and a half wide with no centerline. Because it goes essentially nowhere (a speck on the map called Cross Village) there’s very little traffic, mostly just people there for the drive. If only more of my ride were like that.

I’ve stopped for lunch at Mama Mia’s on Central Ave in Mackinaw City. Decent food at tourist prices. I’m warming up after a rather sunless and chilly ride, and psyching myself up for the Bridge.

Charlevoix morning

Tuesday, 11th August 2009; 8:46 am - Location:

I got a little bit of a scare during supper in Charlevoix last night, when I looked out the window at around 8pm and it was dark. Not nightime dark, but darker than it should be an hour before sunset. It was cloudy too, and the air was hazy. I checked radar on my iPhone and it it showed a small storm possibly headed this way. I didn’t panic, but I finished my meal without stalling and returned to the campground. But other than a nice cloudy sunset with rain way off on the water to the north, nothing happened.

I woke this morning to low but thin overcast clouds. Bits of blue show through from time to time. The forecast says cloudy then partly cloudy, so I’m optimistic. However the surf is up a little and the forecast also says up to 10mph winds… which is about 10 faster than I’d hoped for the Bridge crossing this afternoon.

A few thoughts about the trip so far. I’m starting to get a little saddle sore, which didn’t come up on my two-day practice rides. I probably should have done a 4-day trip first rather than leaping from an overnight to 8 nights. Fortunately it only hurts at first when I sit down; as the feeling goes away it gets better. 🙂 I try to change sitting positions frequently, mostly by moving my feet. I’ve found that sitting with my thighs together, so they’re bearing some of my weight on the seat, helps take some of the pressure off certain spots at the base of my spine.

Yesterday’s equipment failure makes me nervous, because there will be no more Genuine dealers (until Green Bay). If anything further happens I’ll have to rely on Genuine’s roadside assistance (time consuming in the middle of nowhere, I’m sure) and/or the ingenuity of local mechanics.

Charlevoix

Monday, 10th August 2009; 8:05 pm - Location:

Whether it was the distance from Traverse City or from rush hour (or both) the traffic on US-31 thinned out a bit as the evening went on. At times I even went several minutes at a time without anyone coming up behind me. I’ve found that it helps not to look in the rear view mirror too much. That’s probably a larger life lesson I should pay more attention to, but in this case it just means that sometimes I’m better off not knowing that there’s someone riding my ass. I’ve been torn between my habit of hugging the shoulder for safety (like on my bike) and sticking myself in the middle of the lane so that the only way to pass me is a full-fledged lane change. What annoys me the most are the people who try to push past me as if I were a bike riding in the gutter. It might be in a no-passing zone with oncoming traffic and they still pass me. I had one asshole honk at me as he passed me in a passing lane (in a MackinacShuttle.com van, I might add).

I got to Fisherman’s Island State Park around 7pm. I had forgotten that like last night’s campground it’s also “rustic” camping, so no shower tonight or tomorrow morning. It’s even more… well, rustic than Leelanau, with actual wooded gaps between sites, which is nice. Ironically you have to go past a huge landraping operation known as St Mary’s Concrete to get to it. I set up camp and headed into town (just past the park on US-31) for supper. The scooter looks a little weird without a tent, sleeping bag, etc. strapped on the back. 🙂

I got lucky and saw the return of the ferry to/from Beaver Island. I had hoped to work that into this trip but couldn’t fit it in. Another time. Really. They had to raise the drawbridge to let it into the harbor, which I had crossed back and forth just a few minutes before. I’m having supper at Great Lakes Whitefish & Chips; I’m eating the broiled whitefish sandwich, which is good.

Frankfort to Elk Rapids

Monday, 10th August 2009; 5:36 pm - Location: , ,

The guy at Bayside (I really should have learned his name) didn’t have a brake lever in stock, so he took one from one of their stock Buddies, without me having to ask, let alone beg pleasepleaseplease. He charged me $25 for it including installation, which was fine with me. He also gave me directions for how to get back to TC without so many hills… just one doozy that I was seriously afraid to ride down… but I did. It was basically an inverted roller coaster, and I reached the top of the other side at a modest 20mph.

I stopped at a Wendy’s south of TC by several miles since it was 2:30 and I hadn’t eaten since breakfast. Really should have eaten in Frankfort instead. For one thing it would’ve delayed my arrival in TC, where they’d been enduring some freak downpours. Including one shortly after I arrived. One minute I’m in the sun, the next there’s this big dark gray thing overhead and I’m getting wet. It didn’t last long, but was a good practice at emergency rain protection. I passed, and as the rain let up, I congratulated myself at my readiness “for the previous war” (referring to the classic military strategy blunder) because I just might be done with the rain for a while.

I stopped briefly at the bay in downtown TC, but didn’t stay long. I’ve been there before, and I have miles to go before I sleep. The route from there to Charlevoix is US-31, which is not that great a ride (even without the hills). Too much traffic and not enough passing lanes. At least the road is fairly straight so there aren’t miles and miles of Gandalf Zones (“you shall not pass!”).

I’m in Elk Rapids now, another quaint harbor/beachtown, with both Grand Traverse Bay and Elk Lake to play in and the usual downtown mainstreet district.