(actual time: 7/22 2pm)
I’ve been to the Upper Falls and done a little hiking. This has definitely been a “better” visit than my drive-by in 2002. But it’s 2:00 and all good things must come to an end. I still have some of the interior of the UP to explore, and only about 4-5 hours to do it before supper on Lake Michigan and making camp near St Ignace. The only restaurant is still the brewery, which is a bit pricey for another meal, so I’ll get a late lunch on the road.
(actual time 7/22 noon)
I was awake before 7 as usual, and took a leisurely shower (first in 48 hours). I made my way back to the Lower Falls around 8, but discovered that the concession renting boats, for rowing around the basin at the falls and to the island in the middle of them, didn’t open until 9. So I spent some time looking around and taking more pictures from the riverbanks.
They have a few canoes, so I rented one of those ($5 per person). I like being able to see where I’m going, and I’m a good enough canoeist to handle one myself. This gave me a different perspective on the falls than I’d gotten on my short visit 10 years ago.
There was heavy dew this morning, on the underside of the tent and it’s rain fly. Fortunately it’s totally sunny, and Apollo dried them out I quick order.
I just discovered that DEET-based insect repellent will dissolve the waterproof lining of my shoulder bag. My bottle wasn’t sealed tightly and leaked. Fortunately it was only an outside pocket, but I had to flush that part of the bag with water… and let Apollo do his work.
It’s noon, and I haven’t been to the Upper Falls yet. Clearly there’s a lot more to see here than at Mitchell State RV lot in Cadillac. 🙂 I have time. Today’s planned ride is 120 miles, but I can cut 50 off that by turning left instead of right at one point. I can do that without compromising my goal of hitting the three easternmost counties in the UP because the Upper Falls turn out to be in the last of them, so that’s a done deal already!
The ride out of Soo was pretty pleasant. Instead of the state highway that runs east to west, I took the designated “scenic byway” which runs along the lakeshore. It’s 55mph, but with light enough traffic that most vehicles coming up behind me could quickly pass. (Even M123 for the last leg was OK; the only destination at its north end is Tahquamenon, and most people going there this weekend were already there.) And there were more interesting opportunities to stop and see the sights.
For example, there was the Point Iroquois lighthouse (retired), a classic three-story light with a house attached. Visitors can climb the light tower, via a very tight metal spiral staircase. For reasons I cannot fathom, the family ahead of me led their blind aunt (I think) up to the top. She uses a white cane and wears black glasses. She must have some sight, but I don’t see how she would appreciate the view enough to endure the harrowing stairclimb (and down). I found it uncomfortable, and I could see where I was putting my feet.
I made another stop later that was a bit more time and effort but not as much payoff. It was a hiking trail that turned out to be a mile each way through the woods, to a creek crossing. There was a neat bouncy bridge at the creek, but I kinda wish I’d saved the time for Tahquamenon.
So I arrived at the state park at 6:30, a little later than I intended, but not too bad. Before I explained that I had a reservation they said they still had some vacancies in the Overlook campground (where my site is), but it doesn’t look like many. My site is lousy for most campers – there’s almost no level area – but I like it. I only need a small spot for my tent. It’s off in a corner (why I picked it), and right next to the trail to the Lower Falls (not quite a mile). Despite the name “overlook” you can’t see the falls from here, but you can hear them.
Tahquamenon consists of two entirely separate set of falls, a few miles apart. The Lower Falls are a network of short falls splitting and going around a small island. The Upper Falls are one big drop.
I had about an hour to take pictures at the Lower Falls. Of course several future Darwin Award recipients had to go wading or swimming in the middle of the falls, getting in the way of my shots.
My time was cut short, not by darkness but by the hours at the Thaquamenon brewpub/restaurant, located at the Upper Falls; they close at 9:00 on Saturdays and they are the only restaurant for miles. I had lunch here 10 years ago; this time I figure it’s OK to have a couple beers, since I’m camped a few miles away, rather than driving to Copper Harbor at the other end of the UP as I was doing then. The food is expensive (typical dinner entree $18), but quite good. I had the small-portion broiled whitefish with wild rice soup. And two glasses of Falls Tannin (American red brew). My total bill comes to twice my daily dinner budget. Oh well: it’s on the credit card.
The mosquitoes and other insects have been remarkably mild. I guess I have the not-technically-a-drought to thank for that.
Tonight marks the halfway point of the journey: four days getting here, followed by four days getting home. The fact that I’m also at my main destination at this point is logical… but we’ll see how it works out emotionally. On my first big ride, after reaching Pictured Rocks I was ready to just get home, and I rode over 200 miles one day to take a day off the trip. I still have a visit to Mackinac Island on the itinerary for the day after tomorrow, so that’s something more to look forward to. But it’s still 2.5 days’ ride through Huron National Forest and just-plain-mid-Michigan after that.
There is no cell service at all here, so I’m writing this offline to upload later.
I am doing laundry in a so
Reheat sad laundromat in Sault Ste Marie. It has no hot water, so I’m washing everything in a load of cold. By “everything” I mean everything washable except my shorts (which I haven’t worn yet) and one t-shirt. It’s near the locks, so I went down there to look around a bit while the machine ran. The whole locks system has been Homeland Securityed with ominous “you must submit to being searched” warnings at every entrance to the viewing platform and surrounding park (not that they’re actively doing that).
With the bridge and Ontario off the table, I’m going to leave Soo early and see if I can spend more time at the Falls this evening (not just tomorrow morning).
Before coming to Soo, I checked to see whether I’d be allowed to cross International Bridge. Apparently they even allow bicycles, so I’d be fine. It’s not nearly as long as Mackinac, so that’s OK. I brought my passport, so I’m set for the border crossing. However.
I didn’t consider the amount of time it would take to cross. Sure, I have plenty. But then I saw the traffic on the southbound side, backed up at least halfway to Canada. I overheard one person say she’d been stuck on the bridge for half an hour. And I really don’t think I want to sit in stop-and-go traffic on a bridge high enough for freighters to pass under it. So I’m skipping Canada this time. Sorry, eh?
I’ve stopped at the intersection of Gogomain and Pennington, about to turn north for the Soo. And to take off my rain gear. I got dripped on a little, but once again I managed to thread the needle, dawdling just enough for the rain to pass ahead of me. The roads for the past half hour have been wet but the sky is clearing. I can’t be certain however if this will last because AT&T has handed me off to a Canadian cell tower, and I’ve disabled obscenely priced international roaming.
I’ve seen some wildlife this morning. A flock of turkeys crossed the road ahead I me. I stopped, and they started walking down the road. I ended up having to chase them. I passed a couple fawns 10 feet from me, who didn’t have the sense to run. Later I stopped for an adult deer, whom I snapped a couple pictures of. (One good thing about wearing my rain gear is that it doesn’t get in the way trying to get my camera out of the bag.)
